Description
Ultra-rare gents Rolex Day-Date President in 18k yellow gold, Ref# 1803. This watch distinguishes itself as a complete and early 1803, whereas more common 18238 double-quick examples can be found.
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This watch is on the original 18k yellow gold Presidential bracelet with an 18k yellow gold deployant buckle. It has the original 18k yellow gold fluted bezel with an acrylic crystal. The case diameter is 36 mm. Self-winding movement with the day and date. This diamond brown vignette (degradé) early pie-pan dial is a magnificent example, with a crisp step-down from the center of the dial to the minute track, beautifully printed “floating” letters are present on the dial as well as the day and date. The lume dots have remained intact except for the six. With the box, booklets, punched chronometer attestation, red and green hang tags, calendar, cloth, and punched papers stamped by the dealer. The watch is circa 1971. This is an extremely complete and fine example of a classic Rolex wristwatch from a defining era of the brand. Very Good condition.
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This 1803 is extremely rare as it is paired with an early, series 1, Stella pie-pan tobacco brown degradé dial. At that time a company based in Châtelaine and Geneva called Stella SA supplied Rolex with the special lacquer and pigments used on these famously recognizable and coveted colored dials.
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Why this watch is a Stella, even if it is Degradé?
Some collectors and auction houses do not apply the word Stella to these vignette dials. Yes even the brighter colors are shunned of the coveted title if they have a black vignette. But why? If anything they are more complex since they required more time, and additional attention to detail. The additional production step of adding the black required more lacquer and a highly skilled hand. Dr. Helmut Crott, a leading horological expert, worldwide consultant to auction houses, and the first person to discover and disclose publicly the use of Stella pigments by Rolex states:
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“… a Vignette or Degradé is produced in a very similar way. Though most collectors won’t refer to these as Stella, it is worth pointing out that the same technique is used to make them. The only difference is that the dial is on a rotating platform when the lacquer is applied. The varnisher then has to very carefully apply more colored lacquer to the outer edge, thus darkening it. This leaves a gradient that goes from the original, vivid color in the middle, to an almost black around the edge.”
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Dial Qualities
High gloss surface. This dial displays a beautiful polished deep appearance.
The hard enamel of Stella dials tends to crack. This dial features hairline cracks at expected stress points from the edges of the day and date windows.
These cracks allow us to see a side view of the depth of the enamel and varnish as well to confirm the quality and evenness of its application.
The density of the applied color around the date and date windows. The color stays true and does not thin out as it curves the surface leading to the window from the flat dial surface.
The sharpness of the pie-pan edge. This dial displays a right angle while maintaining an even color as the flat surface truncates to the pie pan’s vertical edge. Fakes will be more rushed, and a slope of thicker applied paint will make this edge smooth and cupped.
Lettering
Stella dials will always have clear lettering with a crisp serif and the 5-minute markers will be even in application around the edge. The lettering is crisp on the dial and displays notably fine serif markings even on the smaller lettering.
The printed lettering was always applied after the clear varnish and appears to “float” on the surface of the dial. This watch displays this quality, and the lettering is clearly on top, not covered by the clear varnish.
The color of the lettering is yellow, corresponding with the metal of this yellow gold president.
The lettering is evenly spaced.
The “T Swiss T” is found on early Stella dials, whereas later models display “T Swiss Made T”. This early model displays “T Swiss T”.
Diamond Markers
Many of the Stella diamond dials feature cracks from the settings. This dial displays a small crack extending from the 8.
The diamond facets are aligned consistently with a flat edge to the center of the dial.
The white gold settings are seen in many special order Stella dials as photographed in the book Day-Date – The Presidential Rolex.
All Stella diamonds were all brilliant or emerald cut. These are brilliant cut diamonds.
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In conclusion, many of these characteristics are only found on Stella-manufactured dials resulting from their specialized process. Making this early Series 1 Stella 1803 very special indeed.
New: Brand new, without any signs of wear
Unworn: Mint condition, without signs of wear
Very Good Worn with little to no signs of wear
Good Light signs of wear or scratches
Fair Obvious signs of wear and scratches
Grading Info
